By the essence of our sport There are two types of rock climbers, those who use ropes and those who do not. And many climbers fall into two further categories. A power climber or an endurance climber. Unless you’re Adam Ondra, you probably don’t have an equal balance between the two. Most climbers do not focus on both sport climbing and bouldering training at the same time, so the endurance-power ratio (and vice versa) is usually quite biased.
If your goal is to be a healthy and balanced mountaineer, the ability to stay calm through difficult sequences on endurance-based sports routes is just as important as the ability to train muscles through powerful movements. am. Supplement your gym training session with these four exercises to help increase your endurance. If you can integrate at least one or two of these exercises into your weekly regimen, you should be ready to cut the chain of these endurofest projects.
Fingerboard movement hang
Guide the pump while building finger strength
Moving the hang involves moving your hand around the fingerboard to generate a pump while moving the force of your fingers. Use all the holds on the fingerboard to create and follow the pattern, moving one hand for a few minutes at a time. This includes holds that take advantage of weaknesses such as slopes and pinches. You never get stuck. Instead, your feet will support you while you move your hands. Depending on your setup, you can install a few feet of jib or wooden beams under the fingerboard, or place a chair or stool a few feet behind the board.
Starting with a comfortable start hold (usually the largest jug), move your hands around the fingerboard and hold each hand in place for 3-5 seconds. Your goal is to last for at least 5-10 minutes. When you start to feel the pump, return to the big hold and shake each arm for about 30 seconds. After resting, start moving around the board again. When you reach your time goal, rest for 5-10 minutes before proceeding to the second and third sets. Aim for 3 sets per workout twice a week.
Climbing interval
Wrap to burn your forearms
In this exercise, you will orbit a moderately difficult boulder problem or route. The ideal climb is steep and intense, but it’s not technically difficult enough to not be able to climb three laps completely. Burns that climb alternately at break intervals. The remaining phases should be roughly proportional to the length of the climbing phase. In other words, if you climb for 1 minute, take a 1-minute break. (Use a stopwatch to stay within these guidelines.) Continue these intervals until you pump too high to climb. Make at least three laps and proceed to another similarly difficult problem or route. If you can successfully perform 5 or more intervals, choose a slightly more intense climb for your next workout. It is useful to choose a route that does not have twisted holds or strenuous movements that can cause injury if you climb repeatedly or become tired. Do 2-3 sets per session twice a week.
French bulldog
Increase lock-off strength
Use the pull-up bar or fingerboard (use maximum hold) with both hands separated by shoulder width. Place your hand on your chest, pull it up to the top, lock it for 5 seconds (A), then lower yourself to a straight arm position. Immediately pull it up again, but this time lower it to a halfway position (elbow 90 degrees) and hold it down for 5 seconds (B). Move to a straight arm again, then pull up 3 times to reduce this time by about 2/3 for 5 seconds (120 degree elbow) (C). Lower it to the bottom position to complete one cycle. Immediately start the second cycle of the French Bulldog without stopping or getting off to take a break, counting all lockoffs completely for 5 seconds. If possible, continue the 3rd, 4th, and 5th cycles. Stop when you can no longer perform a full pullup or hold a lockoff. Break for 5 minutes before the next set.
Aim for 5 sets of this for each workout. Beginners should use an Olympic ring, pull-up bar, or jug on the hangboard. Advanced climbers should use a flat full pad edge on the hangboard.
Pull-up interval
Refresh your pull-up routine with this training
Tired of pull-ups? We are the same. But their positive effect on climbing cannot be denied. Solution: Pull-up interval. Your goal is to complete 20 1-minute pull-up intervals. Each interval consists of a set number of pull-ups and a break that takes place within that minute. Use a stopwatch to maintain an accurate timetable. Start the stopwatch and start with 5 pullups. It can be done more or less depending on the intensity level. Aim for a smooth and stable pace with perfect posture for each chin-up. After going 5 times, get off and rest for the remaining 1 minute. At the start of the next minute, start another set of 5 pullups. When you’re done, rest for the remaining minute. Continue these intervals for 10-20 minutes. When you reach 10 minutes, a total of 50 suspensions will be completed. This is a good intermediate level pull-up training. When it’s completely 20 minutes, congratulate you on 100 pull-ups!
If you’re having a hard time completing 10 minutes, reduce the number of pullups per set to 3 or 4. Conversely, if you feel that the entire 20-minute routine isn’t harsh, increase the number of pull-ups to 6 or 7.
Eric Horst has been climbing for over 30 years and is the author of the following books: Training for mountaineering, How to climb 5.12, Maximum climbingAnd newly released Learn to climb indoors..look trainingforclimbing.com..
